Puppy Guide

Choosing the right puppy

If you are reading this section, you’ve decided that you want to bring a new puppy into your life. Congratulations! You’ve taken the most important first step in becoming a great dog owner by doing your research. Carefully choosing a dog that is the best fit for your family takes time and patience, but your hard work will pay off in the end. Whether you are looking for a purebred or a rescue pup, make sure you get guidance from your breeder or shelter staff about which dogs are the right size and temperament to join your family. If you already have a veterinary office picked out, they can also be a great resource in your decision-making process as you work to determine what breed, or mix of breeds, is right for your family. It is a rare luxury to be able to choose a family member, so take advantage of this opportunity!

Congratulations – you’ve chosen a puppy! Now what?

There are many ways to get your life started with your new puppy, but our favorite way is to start by gathering the supplies that you’ll need to set yourself up for success. We’ve gathered a list of our favorite puppy supplies and training tools to get you started.

• A Wire Dog Crate
  • Crate training is the fastest way to potty train your puppy since most dogs quickly learn not to have accidents in their “den.” It is important that a crate is cozy enough to discourage your dog from soiling it, but large enough that your pet can stand or fully stretch out laying down. We recommend that you buy a crate that has the ability to be sectioned off so you can adjust the size of the crate as your dog grows. In addition to being a great tool for potty training, having a dog who views their crate as a comforting space is useful, as it may be several years before your puppy is trustworthy enough to be left alone in the house while you’re away. The crate also becomes a safe haven for your pet when they are feeling insecure, such as when you’re traveling, having visitors to the house, and during thunderstorms. For this reason, the crate should never be used to punish your puppy. Instead, make it a special, safe place for napping by encouraging your puppy with treats and verbal positive reinforcement.
• Harness, collar, and leash
  • We recommend that you start by purchasing a basic collar that allows you to attach an ID, as well as a good quality four or six foot nylon leash. We strongly advise against extendable leashes, which allow your puppy too much freedom to roam and make it difficult to train him or her to walk politely on a leash. It is also a good idea to use a collar to identify your puppy, but purchase a harness to use on walks when your puppy is young in order to prevent trauma to your puppy’s fragile airway and neck. Certain harnesses also offer the additional benefit of helping to train your puppy not to pull while on leash walks. We like most padded mesh harnesses because they are breathable and washable, but there are many good harnesses available in pet stores.
• Puppy ID
  • Initially, a light nylon collar with an ID tag or embroidery indicating your puppy’s name and your phone number is important. Once your puppy has had his or her Rabies vaccine, we will give you a Rabies tag that should be worn on the collar. When your puppy is spayed or neutered, we will also recommend a microchip for permanent identification.
• Toys
  • The selection of toys at the pet store can be overwhelming, but finding a small selection of toys that your pup enjoys is an important step to take because all puppies chew.Chew toys replace your furniture, shoes, and hands as objects to chomp, and most puppies only need 2-3 toys to keep them happy. Every puppy has a different preference for what they like to chew, so providing a small variety of toys is important in the beginning as you find out what your puppy’s preferences are. For example, some puppies chew based on texture. Durable, semi-hard nylon toys like Nylabones are good for these dogs. Other puppies are flavor fanatics, so hard rubber toys that can hold tasty food or treats, like a Kong, are best for these pets. We do recommend that any chews offered to a puppy are soft enough to be indented by a fingernail. Otherwise, there is a risk of fractured teeth, which is no fun for anyone! Other puppies love to play hunter, and a durable but plush toy that squeaks will fulfill the inner predator in these pups. For any toy, it is very important to monitor your puppy periodically while he is playing. We recommend removing any partially destroyed plush toys, and any toy that has been chewed down to a size that can fit completely in your dog’s mouth to avoid choking.
• Food
  • Dog food is a hot topic of conversation these days! There are as many opinions out there as there are dog foods, from advocates of gluten free and grain free to raw food and more. Your puppy will already be eating a food that your breeder or shelter has chosen to feed, but eventually you will need to choose your dog’s long-term diet. The first thing you need to have at home is a small supply of whatever your puppy was eating at the breeder or shelter prior to coming home with you. Quick transitions from one food to another can upset any dog’s stomach, and we especially see this with very young puppies!

Once your puppy has settled into your home and is eating his original food well, you can consider a slow, 1-2 week transition to a food of your choosing. There are a lot of opinions out there about what to feed dogs, but the bottom line is that all AAFCO approved foods labeled for puppies have been determined to be nutritionally appropriate for a dog’s development. There are rare exceptions to this rule of thumb, such as giant breed puppies and puppies with food allergies, in which case your vet will offer advice about what food is best for your specific puppy. We recommend feeding a food with moderate protein and fiber from a large, reputable company with high quality control practices such as Science Diet, Purina, Iams/Eukanuba, or Royal Canin. The above companies meet the standards put forth by the WSAVA, an international cohort of veterinary nutritionists (veterinarians with specialty training in nutrition) – this is the highest level of accreditation for dog food. Foods that are labeled as “puppy” food are specifically formulated for your puppy’s growth and will include a guide with a suggestion of how much to feed your puppy according to his or her weight and age. Importantly, we recommend avoiding grain-free diets. While popular, there is a growing body of concern that links long-term feeding of grain-free diets to a heart condition called Dilated Cardiomyopathy (DCM). As your puppy grows, you will increase the amount that she eats, as well as the amount of time between feedings. Puppies under 12 weeks or 10 pounds should be fed 3 times daily, but once your puppy is either 12 weeks old or 10 pounds (whichever comes first), it’s ok to transition to twice daily feedings.

Puppies have a natural curiosity and explore the world with their mouths, so it is important to get them the nutrition they need and also help them avoid foods and toys that are dangerous. It may be tempting to feed your sweet new puppy a few bites of your own dinner, but feeding human food can create bad habits like begging, and certain human foods are toxic for our furry friends. If you’d like to know more about which human foods are toxic for your new canine companion, the ASPCA has put together a list of dangerous human foods (http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control/people-foods-avoid-feeding-your-pets) to help you know what foods to avoid.

Ok, I’ve got my supplies. What do I need to know about entertaining and training my new puppy?

Puppies have a lot of energy and need exercise. A tired puppy is an easy puppy to manage! Make sure your puppy has plenty of opportunities to play, especially with other dogs. There is some evidence that high-impact, repetitive activity (such as running on pavement) should be avoided until 1 year of age, especially in large breed dogs, but that doesn’t mean your puppy cannot get good exercise! Good alternatives are running on grass, playing fetch, or playing with other dogs for as long as it takes to tire your puppy out.

In addition to needing exercise, your puppy needs an active social life in order to learn how to interact with other dogs and become a good citizen. Both training and play are essential to healthy development! Training can begin as early as 8-10 weeks, after your puppy has received his or her first distemper, parvo and bordetella vaccines. We do not recommend waiting until your puppy has completed their full vaccine series before you start training or socialization, as key social development occurs between 8 and 20 weeks of age.

Socialization in the form of puppy playgroups, daycare, or group training are excellent ways for your puppy to socialize and exercise simultaneously. A good daycare or training program does not necessarily need to be fancy! Look for a company that takes health and safety seriously by matching up dogs by temperament, age, or size, and by requiring proof of regular parasite screens and vaccines. It is also a good idea to use a company that is insured and bonded in case of an accident.

What to expect at your first veterinary visit

It is always a good idea to bring your puppy to the veterinarian within 1-2 weeks of adoption. Some puppies will be partially vaccinated already, but it is wise to meet with your veterinarian soon after adoption to discuss any questions you might have and to check for any congenital diseases or infections. Health concerns aside, your veterinarian’s primary goal at your first visit is to get to know you and your puppy, and to set you both off on the path to a successful and healthy relationship. At this visit, your vet will complete a thorough exam and review your new puppy’s health records. After reviewing your puppy’s records and talking with you, your vet will come up with an appropriate vaccine and deworming schedule. Depending on your puppy’s age and what vaccines she’s already been given, the number of puppy visits that you make to the vet will vary. Typically, a healthy puppy will need to be seen once every 2-4 weeks until he or she is at least 16 weeks old. These visits will ensure that your puppy is developing properly and can be used to address any questions you have through varying stages of your puppy’s growth. The experience of raising a puppy is different for everyone, and your vet is a great resource for help along the way!

Vaccines for your puppy

There are many vaccines available for dogs, and your vet will work with you to design your puppy’s vaccine schedule to provide sensible protection against diseases specific to your

puppy’s individual risks. Below is a little bit of information about the most common vaccines we recommend at our hospital:

• DA2PP (Distemper, Adenovirus-2, Parainfluenza, and Parvovirus)
  • This is a combination vaccine given to prevent multiple diseases affecting the gastrointestinal, neurological, respiratory, and immune systems. These diseases are spread through contact with other dogs and wildlife. DA2PP is given to puppies as a series of vaccines every 3-4 weeks until they reach 16 weeks of age. It is boostered again one year later, and every three years thereafter.
• Rabies
  • Rabies is a life threatening virus that can infect most mammals. Because of the seriousness of the disease and its ability to be spread to humans, Massachusetts state law requires that all pets receive a rabies vaccine between 3 months and 6 months of age. The rabies vaccine is boostered 9-12 months after the first vaccine is given, and then every 3 years for the rest of your puppy’s life.
• Bordetella (Kennel Cough)
  • “Kennel cough” is caused by several infectious agents. Symptoms include a dry, hacking cough which can lead to severe pneumonia in some animals. The bordetella vaccine decreases the severity of symptoms associated with kennel cough, and is required by most boarding facilities, trainers, and groomers. It is recommended for dogs who visit groomers, go to dog parks, attend obedience classes/playgroups, or frequently come into contact with other dogs. This vaccine is given every 6-12 months depending on your dog’s risk level.
• Lyme
  • Lyme disease is caused by a bacteria that is transmitted through the bite of a deer tick. Complications from Lyme disease can include lethargy, fever, joint pain and, in rare cases, kidney failure and death. Under the American Animal Hospital Association Canine Vaccine Guidelines, the Lyme vaccine is listed as a non-core vaccine. However, due to the high prevalence of Lyme disease in this area, we recommend vaccinating all dogs that have any chance of encountering ticks. This vaccine is generally boostered 2-4 weeks after the initial dose, again six months later, and once yearly thereafter.
• Leptospirosis
  • Leptospirosis is a bacteria transmitted through the urine of wildlife and other infected dogs. It can cause serious, often fatal illness in dogs and has the potential to infect humans as well. In fact, Leptospirosis is one of the few diseases that can be transmitted by dogs to humans. Dogs who are most at risk are those who are exposed to standing water (such as those who swim in lakes or drink from puddles), the urine of wildlife and rodents and those that attend enclosed daycare spaces. Leptospirosis has unfortunately become a significant problem in the greater Boston area in recent years. This vaccine is boostered 3-4 weeks after the initial dose, then becomes yearly thereafter.

Protecting your Puppy from Parasites

At one of your puppy’s first visits to the vet, your veterinarian will talk to you about ways to protect your puppy from the various parasites most common in New England, including ticks, fleas, intestinal parasites and heartworm. Below, we’ve put together a short primer on these parasites and how to prevent them:

The Problems:

• Fleas and Ticks
  • Ticks are nasty little buggers that carry a host of dangerous diseases that can infect both your dog and you. Unfortunately, vaccines don’t exist for the majority of tick-borne illnesses, so preventing exposure is an important part of keeping your puppy healthy. In addition to protecting your puppy from exposure to ticks, it’s important to prevent your puppy from being exposed to fleas, which can make your dog very itchy, can cause tapeworm infections, and can transmit Bartonella henselae (the causative agent of Cat Scratch Fever). Because we’ve had several recent winters without a break in tick activity, and fleas never take a break from causing trouble, we strongly recommend that all dogs be kept on flea and tick preventative monthly, year-round.
• Heartworm
  • Heartworm disease is a serious illness transmitted by mosquitoes. Larvae enter the bloodstream when the mosquito feeds, which mature and grow into worms that live in the vessels of the lungs and eventually migrate into the heart. Advanced heartworm disease is difficult, painful, and expensive to treat. In New England, mosquitoes can survive through the winter inside our homes which means that the risk of contracting heartworm is always present. The good news is that heartworm disease is very easy to prevent.
• Intestinal Parasites
  • Intestinal parasites are common in puppies, including those that come from reputable breeders. While signs of infection can include poor growth and diarrhea, many puppies carry parasites without symptoms. Screening your puppy at least twice during the first several weeks of ownership is important to ensure he or she is not harboring any parasites, so we will ask you to bring a fresh stool sample to each puppy appointment.

Prevention:

There are several different products available to prevent fleas, ticks, heartworm and some intestinal parasites. The easiest option is a monthly chewable tablet which targets all of the above pathogens called Simparica Trio. For owners who spend a significant amount of time in heavily wooded areas, adding a Seresto collar, which repels ticks, is an excellent additional layer of protection. If for any reason the Simparica Trio does not agree with your dog, a monthly chew called Heartgard can be used alongside the Seresto collar or a monthly topical medication to prevent internal and external parasites.

Spay and Neuter: When to do it and why

Your veterinarian will probably recommend surgery to spay or neuter your puppy, which can have significant health benefits for both male and female dogs. Spayed female dogs have dramatically reduced rates of mammary cancer, ovarian cancer and uterine infections, not to mention eliminating the risk of an unwanted pregnancy. Neutered male dogs have lower risks of prostate and testicular disease, as well as reduced incidence of dominant behaviors like aggression, roaming, and marking.

The timing of this surgery will depend on your pet’s age, breed, size and overall health. While many puppies can be spayed as young as 6 months old, in some cases the recommendation may be made to allow your pet to finish growing prior to surgery. Your veterinarian will discuss the timing that is best for your individual pet.

Microchipping; What it is and when to consider it

A microchip is a rice sized implant that is placed under your dog’s skin. Because it is implanted under the skin and can’t fall off like a collar or a tag, a microchip is the only form of permanent identification for your pet. This implant has a unique ID number that can be detected with a microchip scanner. This ID number is linked to your contact information so once your pet’s microchip has been scanned, the hospital or shelter that scanned it can contact you to let you know your pet has been found. Scanners are carried by most veterinary hospitals, animal control officers, and shelters, so having a microchip implanted in your pet gives him or her the best chance of finding his or her way home should s/he ever go missing. Every year thousands of pets are returned to their owners because of microchip technology, so we strongly recommend that all pets receive a microchip at the time of their spay or neuter.

Maintaining your puppy: Grooming, Nail Trims, and Brushing Teeth

Grooming:

Different breeds have different grooming requirements, and some breeds will never need a formal grooming routine. Most puppies do not need to be bathed or groomed (unless they are dirty) until their adult coat grows in, which typically happens between four and eight months of age. However, it is a good idea to begin training your puppy to tolerate brushing, bathing, and nail clipping early on. This can be done by playing with your puppy’s feet and ears as well as lifting their lips and gently opening their mouths on a regular basis. This will condition them to tolerate people touching their feet for nail trims, cleaning their ears and brushing their teeth down the road.

As puppies or as adults, short coated dogs rarely need grooming beyond a bath after they roll in the mud. These dogs can often be bathed with a gentle dog or baby shampoo on an as needed basis at home. However, all long-haired and curly-coated dogs will need to be groomed on a regular basis to prevent matting. When choosing a groomer, be sure to pick someone who is experienced with your dog’s breed and takes any health concerns and temperament into account. Some groomers recommend bringing puppies in for just a couple of quick visits when they are young so that they can get used to the groomer and the noises that they hear during

these appointments. Be sure that your puppy is up-to-date on all vaccines required by that grooming facility to minimize exposure to illnesses.

Nail Trims:

Most dogs require nail trims on a regular basis. The frequency of these trims depends on whether your dog wears their nails down naturally during walks on pavement and dirt. Dogs kept mostly in a grass yard need more frequent nail trims because they aren’t wearing down their nails as much as dogs who walk on pavement. Many dogs allow their owners to perform nail trims if they are conditioned to have their feet handled. If you’re interested in trimming your puppy’s nails at home, keep in mind that it is very important that your puppy’s first few nail trims are done well, without cutting the nails painfully short, so that your dog will allow this treatment without a struggle. If you are interested in doing nail trims at home but have questions about how to trim your puppy’s nails, the staff at your vet’s office can demonstrate the proper technique. If you’re not interested in trimming your puppy’s nails at home, these trims can be done by a groomer or at any visit to the vet.

Tooth Brushing:

It is a good idea to start as early as possible with tooth brushing. We recommend that you start off slowly by introducing a good quality VOHC (Veterinary Oral Health Council) Approved, dog-friendly toothpaste such as CET toothpaste or Petsmile toothpaste as a treat. Simply put a little bit of toothpaste on your fingertip and allow your puppy to lick it off. Veterinary toothpaste comes in a variety of flavors that dogs like, so you have several options to try if your puppy isn’t crazy about the taste of the first toothpaste you try. It’s important to never use human toothpaste on your dog, as human toothpastes often contain xylitol, which is toxic to dogs. Once your puppy is used to the toothpaste and accustomed to having your fingers near his or her mouth, you can gradually work up to doing a full tooth brushing. This will make it much easier later on in life when your dog’s adult teeth need regular brushing. Your puppy will begin losing his or her baby teeth at around four months of age, so the frequency with which you brush your puppy’s teeth doesn’t matter right away. However, we do recommend that you brush your adult dog’s teeth as often as you can manage, as recent research has shown that brushing on a daily or every other day basis will yield the best results.

In Case of Emergency

What do I do if my puppy is having an emergency?

When you visit your vet for the first time, it’s a good idea to ask them if they are able to accommodate emergency visits during office hours, and ask where the nearest veterinary emergency hospital is located in case of after-hours emergency.

How do I know if my puppy is having an emergency?

Symptoms that always require immediate care include:

• labored breathing
• pale or gray gums
• trouble walking
• vomiting frequently or inability to hold down water
• more than 3 seizures in 24 hours or a seizure that lasts longer than 3 minutes
• hit by car (even if your pet appears fine)
• inability to open an eye
• straining to urinate without producing urine
• inability to bear any weight on a limb
• laceration that is very deep or larger than 2 inches

Conditions that may require emergency care include:

• ingestion of human medication or poison
• ingestion of your pet’s own medication in a higher than prescribed dose
• diarrhea that occurs more than 4 times per day
• a single seizure
• blood in urine or stool
• coughing without labored breathing
• limping

If your pet is having one of these problems, it is best to call your veterinarian or local veterinary emergency hospital to determine if your puppy needs to be seen right away. If your puppy gets into a toxin or medication, there are also two pet poison services available that can assist you by phone. They will help you initiate emergency treatment at home if possible, and let you know how quickly your dog needs veterinary care. These poison control services are the Pet Poison Helpline, which can be reached at 855-764-7661, and the ASPCA Poison Control Helpline, which can be reached at 888-426-4435. There is always a fee associated with poison control services, but in the event that your puppy has ingested a toxic substance, it is worth every penny to get the advice of a boarded toxicologist who can develop a treatment plan for your veterinary hospital to follow in the event that your puppy requires treatment.

What about Pet Insurance for my puppy?

Your first visit to the vet is a great time to talk about the pros and cons of pet insurance, as many veterinary offices work with one or two insurance companies to waive the traditional waiting period so your pet’s coverage begins immediately after you activate your policy. Pet insurance has become a big business in the past decade, so there are many different companies and plans to consider. Most people who choose to have pet insurance do so to help pay for large or unexpected veterinary bills that would be difficult to pay out-of-pocket. Advancements in veterinary medicine have improved the lifespan and quality of life of pets by

years, but this care comes at higher cost than we might be able to anticipate when our pets are young and healthy. By getting medical insurance for your pet, you reduce the financial barriers to giving your pet the very best care available.

Unlike with human health insurance, veterinary pet insurance requires you to pay your full veterinary bill at the time of service. Once the bill is paid, you submit your paid invoice along with your claim form to request reimbursement from your insurance company. The downside of this system is obvious: you’re stuck paying out of pocket even though you have pet insurance! However, the upside of this system for pet insurance claims is significant, in that this system allows all veterinarians to work with all insurance companies. This means that you can take your pet to any veterinarian at any time without having to worry about whether or not they accept your pet insurance. Need help submitting a claim? Just ask! Your vet’s office should be happy to help guide you through the process, fill out forms with you, and even submit claims for you.

All pet insurance companies are different, so it’s important to do your research and ask questions to determine which company, if any, is the right fit for your needs. Below are some questions to ask your prospective insurance provider as you begin your search.

• What are my choices of deductible, and will my deductible be per issue or per year? (For example: If my dog has a chronic condition such as heart disease, but also gets ear infections, will I pay a deductible for each condition once, and then never again, or will I pay into a single deductible for all of his medical conditions once a year?)
• What will my monthly premium be? – Will my monthly premium increase as my pet ages, or increase if I make a claim?
• Are hereditary and congenital conditions covered? (For example: hip dysplasia in large breed dogs)
• What do you consider to be a preexisting condition? (For example: If my dog had an eye infection two years ago but has been healthy ever since, would you deny my claim if he got an eye infection today?)
• Is there a limit to how much money you’ll reimburse me for veterinary care each year, or a limit to how much you’ll reimburse over the lifetime of my dog?
• Do you reimburse me for care based on the actual amount of money I paid my veterinarian, or based on a benefit schedule?
• Can I have a procedure or treatment pre-approved so I know how much you will pay before I agree to the procedure? How long does it take to receive an answer once I’ve submitted a request for preapproval?
• How quickly will I receive reimbursement once I’ve submitted a claim? – Do you cover the cost of dental care for my pet?
• Do you cover routine/wellness care (such as wellness exams, vaccines, or spay/neuter surgery)? If so, how much will my monthly premium go up if I add wellness coverage to my policy?
• Do you cover nutritional supplements and prescription drugs? Is this optional coverage, or included in my standard policy?
• When will my coverage begin? Are there waiting periods for accidents or illnesses? (For example: If my puppy develops an ear infection 10 days after I enroll her in your policy, would her treatment be covered?)
• Is there a separate waiting period for orthopedic conditions?

There’s a lot to consider when it comes to choosing a pet insurance company, and pet insurance is not for everyone. Many people would rather save money in a rainy-day fund than pay a monthly premium for pet insurance, and there’s nothing wrong with that. However, if you do choose to get pet insurance, we recommend doing so when your puppy is still very young in order to avoid coverage denial for any “pre-existing conditions.” Most insurers will allow you to sign your puppy up for insurance once he is seven or eight weeks of age, and some plans will allow you to start immediate coverage within 24 hours of a healthy puppy visit, so it’s a good idea to talk to your vet about insurance at your first visit!

Last but not least, have fun!

Raising a growing puppy can be hectic at times, but don’t forget to have fun with your new furry little friend, and don’t forget to enlist the help of your vet’s office or a trainer if you have any trouble along the way! They have a wide variety of experience with puppies of all shapes and sizes, and would be happy to help!